Watches & Wonders 2026: New Rolex & Cartier Models and What Went Out of Production

Watches & Wonders 2026 — Geneva

On April 14, 2026, Watches & Wonders opened in Geneva. For Rolex, everything this year revolves around one number: one hundred. A century of Oyster case — the waterproof housing patented in 1926 that became the template for nearly everything that followed. The 2026 collection is called Oyster Story, and every new model carries that theme.

But not every story is about what arrives. Some are about what leaves. On the same morning the new enamel Daytona was unveiled, the Pepsi GMT-Master II disappeared from the steel catalogue for the first time in a decade. A celebration and a closing, in a single release cycle.

Here’s what changed — at Rolex and Cartier — and what it means for anyone looking at a watch right now.

Rolex — The New Models

Cosmograph Daytona 126502 — Rolesium with White Enamel

The most talked-about release of the year: a Daytona in Rolesium (steel with platinum bezel) featuring a white enamel dial and a grey ceramic bezel. Enamel on a Daytona is exceptional — a material that demands dozens of hours of handwork and maintains the same lustre decades later. The grey bezel is a quiet choice; a contrast that stands out by refusing to.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126502 Rolesium with Grand Feu enamel dial and grey Cerachrom bezel
Cosmograph Daytona 126502 — Rolesium with Grand Feu enamel dial and grey Cerachrom bezel.

Oyster Perpetual 36 — Jubilee Dial

To mark a century of the Oyster, the OP 36 receives a multicoloured dial built from the letters that spell ROLEX — a Jubilee motif in miniature. Not a subtle reference; an unmistakable one.

Oyster Perpetual 28 in Yellow Gold

The 28mm receives its first execution in solid 18-carat yellow gold with a green stone lacquer dial and hour markers in heliotrope — a natural stone in green with subtle colour reflections. Smaller size, serious material choice.

Oyster Perpetual 34 in Yellow Gold & Everose

The OP 34 — long an entry model — moves up to a fully gold position. Available in yellow gold and 18k Everose, with dials in turquoise, mother-of-pearl, black and blue.

Day-Date in Jubilee Gold

Rolex introduces an entirely new alloy: Jubilee gold. An 18-carat gold alloy developed and cast in-house, with a colour that shifts between soft yellow, warm grey, and pinkish copper depending on the light. The Day-Date is the first reference to carry it.

Yacht-Master II — The Return

After being discontinued in 2024, the Yacht-Master II returns to the catalogue. Not identically. The complex Ring Lock bezel has given way to a blue Cerachrom dive-style bezel. The design is tighter, the dial more legible, with maxi-style diver markers. A reimagination rather than a repeat.

Technical — Tightened Superlative Chronometer

Less visible but equally significant: Rolex has tightened its Superlative Chronometer certification for 2026. Every watch in the new collection carries the revised certification, with stricter accuracy and testing standards.

Rolex — What’s Gone

GMT-Master II Pepsi (126710BLRO & 126719BLRO)

The big confirmation of the year: the Pepsi is out of production. Both the steel 126710BLRO and the white gold 126719BLRO have disappeared from the configurator. For the first time since the introduction of Cerachrom in the GMT line, no steel GMT-Master II with a red bezel exists. The steel line now consists of:

Bezel Nickname Reference
Blue & black (Oyster) Batman 126710BLNR
Blue & black (Jubilee) Batgirl 126710BLNR
Grey & black Bruce Wayne 126710GRNR
Green & black Sprite 126720VTNR

Of the anticipated “Coke” — red-black — there’s no sign. It didn’t come, and won’t arrive later in 2026 either.

Read our deeper take on the Pepsi discontinuation →

Submariner Date “Cookie Monster” (126619LB)

The second major departure. The 18K white gold Submariner Date with blue ceramic bezel — known by the nickname Cookie Monster — is also out of production. Retail was approx. €46,000. Rolex loses one of the few white gold sports variants in the active catalogue.

Two Blue Tones, One Day

That Pepsi and Cookie Monster disappear on the same day is no coincidence. Two ceramic blue-based bezels leave the collection in a single Watches & Wonders cycle. Rolex is recalibrating which colour combinations survive — and which make way for newer forms.

Earlier Discontinuations — Context

To place the 2026 shifts in perspective: Rolex has quietly but steadily pared down models over recent years. A brief state-of-play per line — these are discontinued models, not to be confused with off-catalogue pieces, which we cover separately below:

Milgauss

Out of production since 2023. Removed from rolex.com that same year. Heavy speculation about a 2026 return for the 70th anniversary — Rolex filed a patent in September 2025 for a new method of producing coloured sapphire crystals, fuelling hope for a new Milgauss. But at Watches & Wonders 2026, silence around the green lightning bolt. For now: no successor.

Cellini & Cellini Moonphase

The classic Cellini line was largely discontinued in 2022, with the Moonphase following. The spirit of the Cellini lives on in the newer Perpetual 1908 collection — Rolex’s contemporary take on a dress watch.

Air-King

The current Air-King (126900) remains in the catalogue. No discontinuation in 2026.

Off-Catalogue Pieces — Reserved for Select Clients

Alongside the public collection, Rolex traditionally reveals pieces at Watches & Wonders that don’t appear in the official catalogue. These are low-production pieces, reserved for select clients through boutique relationships — not orderable through usual channels, no reference page on rolex.com, no press coverage in the broader marketing.

Day-Date 40 in Jubilee Gold — Two Off-Catalogue Dials

The most discussed off-catalogue releases of the year sit in the Day-Date 40 line (case ref. 228235) in the new Jubilee Gold alloy, with two exclusive dial executions:

  • Ref. 228235JG-0003 — light green aventurine dial (natural stone, not a glass imitation) with fine grey inclusions that make every example unique, paired with baguette-cut diamond hour markers.
  • Ref. 228235JG-0002 — gold leaf dial with the distinctive gold-leaf texture that Rolex finishes by hand in its atelier.
Rolex Day-Date 40 Jubilee Gold reference 228235JG-0002 with gold leaf dial
Ref. 228235JG-0002 — Day-Date 40 in Jubilee Gold with hand-finished gold leaf dial.

No dedicated product page on rolex.com, no press release in broader communications — both references are only visible to clients with direct boutique access.

Stone-Dial GMT-Master II — Two Off-Catalogue Variations

At W&W 2026 Rolex also showed two GMT-Master II executions with natural stone dials — part of the off-catalogue circuit, not in the public configurator. Specific reference numbers weren’t disclosed through official channels; identification happens via boutique presentation.

Day-Date 36 — Six Stone-Dial Off-Catalogue Versions

The Day-Date 36 line received an extension of six new stone-dial executions — varying by stone type and colour. These round out the off-catalogue Day-Date selection of 2026. Also available only through boutique relationships.

Yacht-Master 40 — Carnelian Stone Dial

The most eye-catching off-catalogue release in a sporting silhouette: the Yacht-Master 40 with a carnelian dial — a red-orange natural stone that almost glows in the sun. Retail around €165,000. Very limited production, boutique allocation only.

What makes this category special: it’s not a press-release strategy. It’s a quiet extension of the collection into the highest segments — for clients who have known Rolex for years and for whom the brand is willing to work outside the standard configuration. Off-catalogue is not a marketing label; it’s a relationship-based channel.

“The distinction between discontinued and off-catalogue: discontinued is what leaves the public collection. Off-catalogue is what was never in it — deliberately reserved for select clients.”

Cartier — The Surprises

The Cartier theme for 2026 is Watchmaker of Shapes, Master of Crafts. A statement that translates into several releases.

Roadster — Back from the 2000s

The biggest surprise: the Roadster returns. The 2002 model, with its auto-inspired case and speedo-style dial, disappeared from the collection for years. Cartier brings it back in steel, bicolor (steel and gold) and full yellow gold. For anyone who once gave up on mid-2000s style too early: it’s officially relevant again.

Cartier Roadster 2026 in steel — comeback of the iconic 2002 model
Cartier Roadster 2026 — the comeback of the automotive-inspired silhouette from 2002.

Santos-Dumont — New Multi-Link Bracelet

The Santos-Dumont receives a polished multi-link bracelet referencing the made-to-measure bracelets of the 1920s. One gold version carries gilded obsidian — a natural stone with iridescent reflections from microbubbles in the material.

Tortue — Five New Executions

Cartier presents five new Tortue models, with a case profile slightly more rounded and refined than the original. Softer lines, generous proportions.

Cartier Privé — 10th Opus

For the 10-year anniversary of the Privé collection, Cartier honours three emblematic shapes from earlier editions: the Tank Normale, the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir and the Crash Squelette. For anyone who knows Cartier at depth: this is the collector moment of the year.

The Underlying Movement

Watches & Wonders 2026 tells one clear story, spread across two brands: shapes matter again. Cartier leans into forms from its archive. Rolex celebrates a century of one specific shape — the Oyster. And at the same time, Rolex lets go of icons it could have kept producing, to make room for new accents.

“A collection is defined not by what arrives, but by what falls away. 2026 is a marker year — for anyone paying attention.”

What This Means for You

If you had a Pepsi or Cookie Monster on your list: the waitlist route no longer exists. The pre-owned market is now the only way, and prices there react fast.

If you’re looking at a new Daytona: the 126502 in Rolesium with enamel will be rarer in production than the usual steel-ceramic configurations. Reserve early or accept a longer wait.

If you collect Cartier: the Tortue expansion and Privé Opus 10 are the releases to watch. Smaller runs, more specific demand.

At XELOR we follow every movement in the catalogue — new, discontinued, and the grey market between. If you’re looking for or wanting to sell one of the references above, let us know.

Browse our current selection

Frequently Asked Questions

When was Watches & Wonders 2026?

The fair opened on April 14, 2026 in Geneva. Most new Rolex and Cartier models were unveiled and shown to the press on the same day.

What is Rolex’s main theme in 2026?

One hundred years of the Oyster case. The entire collection carries the banner Oyster Story. Every release refers in some way to the centenary.

Which Rolex models are out of production in 2026?

The GMT-Master II Pepsi (126710BLRO and white gold 126719BLRO) and the Submariner Date Cookie Monster (126619LB). Both were confirmed on April 14, 2026.

What is Jubilee gold?

A new 18k gold alloy developed and cast by Rolex in-house. The colour varies under light between soft yellow, warm grey and pinkish copper. The Day-Date is the first reference to carry it.

Is the Milgauss coming back?

Not at Watches & Wonders 2026. Despite speculation around the 70th anniversary and a Rolex patent from September 2025 for coloured sapphire crystals, no new Milgauss was announced.

What’s the biggest Cartier release of 2026?

The return of the Roadster, complemented by five new Tortue models and the Privé 10th Opus (Tank Normale, Tortue Monopoussoir, Crash Squelette).

Watches & Wonders 2026

On April 14, 2026 — the morning Watches & Wonders opened in Geneva — the Rolex configurator changed. The steel GMT-Master II showed three remaining bezel combinations: grey-black, blue-black, green-black. No red. The product page for reference 126710BLRO returned a single line: This page is not available.

The Pepsi is out of production. Not as rumour, not as speculation — as catalogue fact. Its white gold sibling, the 126719BLRO, went with it. For the first time since Rolex entered the ceramic era, there is no steel GMT-Master II with a red bezel available from an authorised dealer.

The Quiet Disappearance That Preceded It

The end didn’t come as a surprise — only the timing did. By late summer 2025, Pepsi listings began vanishing from dealer websites across Europe and the US. In February 2026, a major industry publication confirmed what everyone suspected: Rolex had told dealers no further deliveries were coming.

By early March 2026, both the 126710BLRO and the white gold 126719BLRO had disappeared from most authorised channels. Rolex stayed silent. Dealers stayed silent. The market waited for Geneva — and Geneva delivered the answer.

Why This Watch Was Always Scarce

To understand the impact, you need to know why the Pepsi was never easy to find. The two-tone Cerachrom bezel — that deep blue against that cool red — is one of the most technically demanding components Rolex ever produced.

Combining two ceramic colours in a single ring requires precise sintering temperature, a homogeneous pigment mix, and a flatness tolerance that borders on the impossible. According to figures Rolex itself once disclosed, roughly half of the produced Pepsi bezels failed final inspection. Every rejected piece: waste.

That structural bottleneck carried through to distribution. For every three Batmans (blue-black) leaving the factory, only one Pepsi was allocated. And because the same two-tone bezel sits on gold and platinum versions too, steel Pepsis indirectly competed with their more expensive siblings for the same limited supply.

The scarcity was never marketing. It was material.

What Remains in Steel

The GMT-Master II hasn’t disappeared — only its most iconic face has. Here’s what still ships in steel:

Bezel Nickname Reference
Blue & black (Oyster) Batman 126710BLNR
Blue & black (Jubilee) Batgirl 126710BLNR
Grey & black Bruce Wayne 126710GRNR
Green & black Sprite 126720VTNR

What didn’t arrive: the Coke. A fully red-black bezel, long anticipated in forums and predictions, never materialised. Many collectors hoped the Pepsi would make way for its red sister. Rolex chose differently — and left the red side of the spectrum empty.

“For the first time since 2014, the steel GMT-Master II line has no red bezel at all. This is not a refresh. This is a break.”

The Pepsi Didn’t Disappear Alone

The 2026 catalogue shake-up went beyond one model. On the same day, the Submariner Date “Cookie Monster” — the 18K white gold Submariner 126619LB with blue ceramic bezel, known for its ostensibly playful nickname and very serious retail price — was also quietly pulled.

Two ceramic blue tones leave the collection in a single Watches & Wonders cycle. The message is clear: Rolex is recalibrating which colour statements survive — and which make way for newer forms.

What This Means for the Market

Within hours of the confirmation, bids on remaining Pepsi examples on the secondary market jumped by thousands of euros. That’s the predictable short-term effect. More important is what happens over the coming months.

Dealers still managing Pepsi waitlists now face an uncomfortable conversation. Clients who waited years for an allocation are being told the watch they wanted no longer exists as a current production model. Some will switch to the Batman or Bruce Wayne. Others will move to the grey market — where demand will only grow in the weeks ahead.

For those who already own a Pepsi: the watch hasn’t changed, but the context has. A produced, worn example is now a finite quantity. Historically, discontinuation of Rolex icons supports a slow but stable climb in value — not a hype-spike, but a new floor that establishes itself.

For Those Hunting One

The Pepsi hasn’t become unobtainable. It’s become more selective. Pre-owned examples in excellent condition circulate through specialist dealers and collectors — but no longer through the official AD channels where they were once hard enough to secure.

At XELOR we track availability of this reference closely. We watch which examples come to market, which papers are complete, which bezels still show their original sintering. If you’re looking for a Pepsi — now or in the coming months — we’d like to hear from you.

Browse our current Rolex selection

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Rolex Pepsi 126710BLRO officially discontinued?

Yes. Rolex confirmed the discontinuation on April 14, 2026, at the opening of Watches & Wonders in Geneva. The product page on rolex.com is offline and the GMT-Master II configurator no longer shows a red bezel in steel.

Does this also apply to the white gold version?

Yes. The 126719BLRO, the white gold variant with the same red-blue bezel, was discontinued at the same time.

Is a successor coming — the “Coke”?

No. Despite years of speculation, Rolex did not announce any red-black GMT-Master II at Watches & Wonders 2026. The steel line now consists of Batman, Batgirl, Bruce Wayne and Sprite.

What’s happening to prices on the secondary market?

Bids rose by thousands of euros within hours of the confirmation. Longer term, the expectation is a steady climb, in line with previously discontinued Rolex icons.

Which GMT-Master II is most available now?

The Batman (blue-black) remains the most produced steel variant. Bruce Wayne (grey-black) and Sprite (green-black) follow at a distance. All are still under lead-time pressure, but none are as scarce as the Pepsi was.

Is a Pepsi a wise purchase now?

It depends on your goal. As a collector’s piece or daily wearer: yes, the watch hasn’t changed. As pure investment: historically, discontinued icons appreciate — but timing and condition determine everything. Speak with an experienced dealer to find the Pepsi that fits you.

There’s a moment in every Cartier search when you see two watches side by side — one with clean, straight lines, the other with soft, elongated curves — and you realise this isn’t a matter of taste. It’s a matter of self-knowledge. The Tank and the Baignoire are both Cartier in its most essential form. Both icons. Both relevant for nearly a century. And yet they tell two completely different stories about who you are when you wear them.

This guide is for the reader who is torn between the two. Not to crown a winner — because there isn’t one — but to show precisely where they differ, where they overlap, and how to decide for yourself which one fits your life. By the end, you will know.

Two icons, one house: a short history

To understand why these two watches feel so different, you have to return to the moment they were born. The Tank was sketched in 1917 by Louis Cartier, inspired by the silhouette of the Renault FT tank he had seen on the Western Front. It was an era of linearity: Art Deco was about to break through, and men’s watches had just migrated from the waistcoat pocket to the wrist. The Tank was an answer to that moment — angular, disciplined, built for a new century.

The Baignoire is younger, and feminine in origin. The design traces back to 1912 as a round women’s model, but it wasn’t until 1958, under Jeanne Toussaint, that it took on the elongated oval shape we know today — the bathtub form that gave it its name. Where the Tank was a statement of modernity, the Baignoire is a statement of intimacy. Less public, more personal.

You still feel this difference in DNA the moment you put either on your wrist today. The Tank wants to be seen. The Baignoire wants to be understood.

The Tank: discipline in steel and gold

Pick up a Tank Louis Cartier and the first thing you feel is structure. The brancards — the two vertical lines running down the sides of the case — extend unbroken from the strap through to the top. It’s not an incidental detail. Those lines are the entire watch. They make the Tank so recognisable that you can identify it from three metres away, even if you aren’t a watch person.

On the dial, you find Roman numerals in black on white, a thin minute track, and those signature blued steel hands that shift almost violet in certain light. There is no superfluous detail. No date window breaking the symmetry, no sub-dial demanding attention. The Tank is an exercise in subtraction — which is characteristic of the best French watchmaking.

That doesn’t mean the Tank is dull. In the 2026 collection, you see how much room there is for variation within the same code. The Tank Must in steel with a coloured dial — red, green, blue — feels contemporary and playful. The Tank Française with its integrated bracelet wears sportier and more modern. The Tank Américaine is longer and more vertical, and on the wrist it reads almost like a subtle statement. One soul, five different voices.

The Baignoire: softness as a statement

The Baignoire works differently. Where the Tank begins with lines, the Baignoire begins with a curve. The case is an elongated oval — not a circle, not a rectangle, but something in between that doesn’t exist anywhere else in watchmaking. And that’s precisely why it works. You can pick a Baignoire out of a thousand other watches because no other watch looks quite like it.

On the wrist, the Baignoire does something almost magical: it follows the curve of your wrist bone instead of sitting rectangularly on top of it. That makes it extraordinarily comfortable to wear, even on smaller wrists. The watch almost disappears — not because it’s small, but because it conforms to your body. It isn’t an accessory you put on; it’s a detail you carry with you.

The big Baignoire moment came in 2023, when Jennifer Lawrence, Kaia Gerber, Greta Lee and Sofia Richie all started wearing it within a few months of each other. Suddenly this quiet, intimate watch was everywhere — on red carpets, in editorials, on the wrist of anyone who thinks seriously about style. If you want to understand why the Baignoire made such a comeback, read our complete Cartier Baignoire Buying Guide, where we cover sizes, the collection and the style inspiration in full.

Two Icons, Side by Side

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier WGTA0346 white gold
Tank Louis Cartier WGTA0346
Cartier Baignoire WGBA0042 yellow gold
Baignoire WGBA0042
Cartier Tank Must W4TA0030 steel
Tank Must W4TA0030
Cartier Baignoire Mini WGBA0041 yellow gold
Baignoire Mini WGBA0041

Design philosophy: angle vs. curve

Place the Tank and the Baignoire side by side, and you see two entirely different visions of what a watch should be. The Tank is architecture — straight lines, clear angles, taut proportions. It feels like a Le Corbusier building. The Baignoire is sculpture — soft, organic, as though it were cast instead of built. It feels like a Brâncuși work.

This difference translates directly into how they work on your wrist. The Tank makes your wrist look longer and more disciplined — it adds structure. The Baignoire makes your wrist look softer and more elegant — it adds fluidity. People drawn to minimal, architectural style (think Jil Sander, The Row, Lemaire) usually choose the Tank. People drawn to Parisian nonchalance (Isabel Marant, Chloé, Celine) tend toward the Baignoire.

On the wrist: wearability and comfort

One of the most underrated factors in choosing between these two is pure comfort. The Tank, with its rectangular case and flat caseback, sits firmly and predictably on your wrist. For people with a flatter wrist shape, that feels perfect. For those with a more rounded wrist, the Tank can sit slightly “loose” — especially in the larger sizes.

The Baignoire works precisely for those rounder wrists. The elongated oval follows your natural wrist shape; it hugs close — not intrusively, but softly. That’s why the Baignoire is so often recommended for people with smaller wrists (up to 15 cm) and why it keeps returning on men’s wrists too — precisely because it doesn’t need to be “big” to be present.

Sizes and proportions in 2026

The Tank comes in a broad range. The Tank Louis Cartier Small measures 29.5 × 22 mm, the Large 33.7 × 25.5 mm. The Tank Must is available in comparable sizes. The Tank Française runs from Small (25.05 × 20.3 mm) to Large (36 × 30 mm). The Tank Américaine runs more vertical — the Medium measures 44.4 × 22.6 mm and reads on the wrist almost like a vertical stream of numerals.

The Baignoire is simpler in its size structure, but for exactly that reason, more confusing. You have the Baignoire Mini (31.6 × 23 mm), the Baignoire Small (35.35 × 26 mm), and the Baignoire Large Model you see increasingly in Cartier boutiques. The difference between Mini and Small is often the decisive question — the Mini sits more subtly, the Small makes a slightly bigger statement.

The hardest question with both: does it fit your wrist circumference? As a rule of thumb: under 14 cm wrist, the Tank Small, Tank Must Small and Baignoire Mini suit best; between 14 and 16 cm, the Tank Large, Tank Française Medium and Baignoire Small work; above 16 cm, the Tank Américaine, Tank Française Large and occasionally a Baignoire Large Model come into play. For the full Baignoire size comparison, see our Baignoire Size Guide.

Price, availability and the waiting-list factor

This is where it gets interesting. On the official Cartier website, Tank Must models start around € 3,150, the Tank Louis Cartier begins around € 7,000 in steel and € 12,000+ in gold. The Tank Française in steel starts around € 4,450. The Baignoire Mini in white gold starts at roughly € 15,400, the Small in gold from € 17,200. With diamonds, you quickly move toward € 25,000 and beyond.

But official pricing is only relevant if the model is actually in stock. And there’s the catch. The popular Baignoire models and the Tank Française Medium routinely carry six-month to year-long waiting lists at Cartier boutiques. Some white-gold editions aren’t even being delivered in the desired size anymore.

That’s why most serious Cartier buyers now look to specialists like Xelor. At Xelor, you’ll find both icons directly from stock — Tank, Tank Française, Tank Américaine, Baignoire Mini and Small, often in configurations the boutique has been sold out of for months. You don’t pay a premium for patience — you take home exactly what you want, in the size you want, on the day you decide.

Which one suits you? A decision framework

After all this context, it helps to reduce the choice to a few clear questions. Read them slowly and feel what resonates.

Choose the Tank if: you love architecture more than sculpture. You prefer to wear your watch with suits, crisp cotton shirts, or minimalist clothing in black, white, navy. You find rectangles more beautiful than ovals. You want a watch that will still look relevant in ten years because it has already been relevant for a hundred. Your wrist shape is flat to slightly rounded.

Choose the Baignoire if: you love fluid lines. You’re drawn to Parisian style, French-girl aesthetics, vintage references. You appreciate watches people only recognise if they know what to look for. Your wrist is rounder and on the smaller side. You want something that shouts less but says more.

Choose both if: you’re becoming a Cartier lover. Most serious collections eventually include one of each, because they serve completely different moods. The Tank for weekdays, the Baignoire for evenings. Or exactly the opposite, depending on who you are.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Cartier Tank a men’s or women’s watch?

Both. The Tank has historically been unisex and has been worn by men and women since the 1920s — from Andy Warhol to Jackie Kennedy, from Michelle Obama to Harry Styles. The Small sizes are more often read as women’s, the Large and Américaine more often as men’s, but that line has completely blurred today.

Can you swim with a Tank or Baignoire?

No. Both watches are water-resistant only to 30 metres (Tank) or 3 bar (Baignoire) — meaning they withstand splashes and a brief rain shower, but not swimming, showering or sauna. Cartier designed them as dress watches, not tool watches. For swimming, you’d want a Cartier Santos or a Pasha instead.

Which one has an automatic movement?

Most Tank models are quartz, but the Tank Louis Cartier (in gold), the Tank Must Solar in certain executions, and the Tank Louis Cartier XL are mechanical. The Baignoire is usually quartz — Cartier chose this deliberately because the flat case makes a mechanical movement hard to fit without thickening the silhouette. For purists that’s a drawback; for daily wearers, quartz is actually convenient: it never needs winding.

Does the Baignoire hold its value better than the Tank?

Historically the Tank holds its value solidly — especially the Tank Louis Cartier in gold and the Tank Américaine. The Baignoire, since its 2023 popularity peak, has actually appreciated more strongly on the secondary market, particularly the Mini in white gold. Neither should be bought primarily as an investment, but both depreciate far less than the average luxury purchase.

What’s the big difference with the Tank Française?

The Tank Française has an integrated link bracelet instead of a separate leather or alligator strap, which makes it sportier and more modern than the classic Tank Louis Cartier. It’s the most “every-day wearable” Tank, and for many buyers the starting point of their Cartier journey. Explore the Tank Française and every other variant in our Cartier collection at Xelor.

What if I really can’t choose?

Then come try them both. A Cartier watch always feels different on your wrist than on paper, and the right decision is often made in three seconds in front of a mirror. In our Amstelveen showroom you can try every model discussed — Tank Must, Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Française, Tank Américaine, Baignoire Mini and Baignoire Small — side by side on your wrist. No appointment needed, no pressure.

Two icons, one conscience

The choice between Tank and Baignoire is ultimately not a choice about a watch. It’s a choice about which part of yourself you let the world see. The Tank is your discipline — your ambition, your sense of structure, your wish to be seen. The Baignoire is your intimacy — your attention to detail, your taste for what’s subtle, your trust that the people who should notice, will.

Both are legitimate. Both are timeless. Both carry a piece of Cartier’s history on your wrist every day you wear them. And both are directly available at Xelor — no waiting lists, no price markups, with full Xelor warranty and personal advice from people who know these watches inside out.

Discover our complete Cartier collection, or read further in our in-depth Baignoire Buying Guide. Otherwise simply visit our Amstelveen showroom — we’re ready for you.

Related Reading

A watch that looks like a jewel, wears like a bracelet, and has been gracing the wrists of style icons for over half a century. The Cartier Baignoire isn’t new — but the way it has dominated the watch world over the past two years certainly is.

When Cartier unveiled the Baignoire on a rigid bangle bracelet at Watches and Wonders 2023, something shifted. Waiting lists typically reserved for men’s sports watches suddenly appeared for a ladies’ watch with an oval case barely 25 millimetres wide. That’s not a coincidence — that’s a style revolution.


Cartier Baignoire Mini rose gold bangle bracelet WGBA0036


Cartier Baignoire Small yellow gold bangle bracelet WGBA0025

Left: Baignoire Mini in rose gold (WGBA0036) — Right: Baignoire Small in yellow gold (WGBA0025)

Why the Baignoire is suddenly everywhere

The name ‘Baignoire’ translates to ‘bathtub’ in French — a nod to the distinctive oval case shape. The design dates back to 1958, when Cartier introduced the Ovale Cintrée. In 1973 it received its definitive name and form. But the real breakthrough for a new generation came in 2023.

Cartier did something no one saw coming: they mounted the Baignoire on a rigid bangle bracelet, styled after the iconic Love Bracelet. The result is a watch you can stack with other bracelets, one that transitions seamlessly from timepiece to jewel, and works just as effortlessly with a cashmere sweater as it does with an evening gown.

The effect was immediate. Within months, the bangle versions were sold out. Waiting lists grew. For the first time in recent horological history, a ladies’ watch received the same hype as a Rolex Daytona or a Patek Nautilus. The Baignoire became the first true ‘it-girl watch’ of this generation.


Cartier Baignoire yellow gold bangle Size 16 WGBA0045

Cartier Baignoire bangle in yellow gold — Size 16 (WGBA0045)

Mini vs. Small: which model suits you?

Cartier offers the Baignoire in two case sizes, each with a distinctly different presence on the wrist. Both are available on the bangle bracelet.

Specification Mini Baignoire Small Baignoire
Case length 24.6 mm 31.4 mm
Case width 18.7 mm 23.1 mm
Case thickness 7.2 mm 6.9 mm
Movement Quartz Quartz
Material 18K gold 18K gold
Crystal Sapphire Sapphire
Water resistance 3 bar (~30m) 3 bar (~30m)
Presence Subtle, jewel-like Statement, more wrist presence

The Mini is by far the most popular model. With a case width of just under 19 millimetres, it’s almost pure jewellery — the watch stands out by what it doesn’t do: demand attention. It disappears elegantly into a stack of bracelets and feels lighter on the wrist than you’d expect.

The Small offers more presence. The case is noticeably larger and the dial is easier to read. If you’re accustomed to watches of 30mm+ and the idea of a ‘tiny watch’ doesn’t appeal to you, the Small is your model.

XELOR Tip: Torn between Mini and Small? The proportions on the wrist are very different from what photographs suggest. Many women who think they want the Small end up falling for the Mini’s elegance. Try them at a Cartier boutique, or visit our showroom in Amstelveen by appointment — we’ll have both models ready for you.

Size 16 vs. Size 17: what does it actually mean?

This is where most buyers get confused — and rightly so, because Cartier doesn’t always communicate it clearly. The size (15, 16, or 17) refers exclusively to the length of the bracelet, not to the case. The case is identical in every size.

Cartier uses the same sizing system as the Love Bracelet. The sizes correspond to your wrist circumference:

Size Wrist circumference Inner bracelet circumference
Size 15 14.0 – 14.9 cm ~15 cm
Size 16 15.0 – 15.9 cm ~16 cm
Size 17 16.0 – 16.9 cm ~17 cm

The difference between size 16 and size 17 is exactly 1 centimetre in the inner circumference of the bracelet. The oval case — whether Mini or Small — remains exactly the same.

Which size should you choose?

Measure your wrist at the widest point, just past the wrist bone. Use a flexible tape measure or a strip of paper you can measure afterwards.

Size 16 fits tighter and more snugly on the wrist. The watch moves less and feels like a second skin. This is the choice for those who want to wear the watch as a jewel — tight, elegant, motionless.

Size 17 offers a bit more room. More comfortable for daily wear, easier to put on and take off, and more pleasant on warm days when your wrist swells slightly. Many women with a wrist circumference of 15.5 to 16 cm ultimately choose size 17 for the extra comfort.

Important: A Cartier bangle bracelet is rigid — you cannot adjust it after purchase. Choosing the right size is essential. If in doubt, try both sizes at a Cartier boutique, or make an appointment at XELOR in the Parktoren (Van Heuven Goedhartlaan 13D, Amstelveen). We’re happy to advise you personally on the perfect fit.

Cartier Baignoire Mini yellow gold leather strap WGBA0041

Cartier Baignoire Mini in yellow gold on leather strap (WGBA0041)

The full Baignoire collection in 2026

Cartier offers the Baignoire in multiple configurations — from the entry-level yellow gold to fully diamond-set models. Here’s an overview of the key variants:

Model Material Details Starting price (approx.)
Mini — Leather strap 18K yellow/rose gold Classic entry point, light presence approx. €9,000
Mini — Bangle 18K yellow/rose gold The bestseller, stackable approx. €21,000 – €25,000
Mini — Diamond bangle 18K white/rose gold Diamonds on the bezel, ultimate jewel approx. €45,000 – €85,000
Small — Bangle 18K yellow gold Larger case, more wrist presence approx. €27,000 – €32,000

Prices vary significantly depending on material, diamond setting, and availability. The most popular models — the Mini in yellow gold bangle without diamonds — currently have waiting lists at most Cartier boutiques. Want to know what’s available? At XELOR, we advise you personally — get in touch or visit our showroom by appointment.

Why the Baignoire is more than a trend

Trends come and go. But the Baignoire has something most hyped watches lack: half a century of history. The design wasn’t conceived to go viral — it has slowly evolved into an icon over the past fifty years. The bangle bracelet wasn’t a marketing trick, but a logical evolution of a form that always balanced between watch and jewel.

Compare it to the Cartier Tank or the Panthère: shapes so strong they survive generations. The Baignoire now definitively joins that lineage. The difference is that in 2026, it has the momentum the Tank only achieved after decades.

For those who see luxury as a deliberate choice — not a shout for attention, but a whisper that reaches the right people — the Baignoire is exactly the right statement.


Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between size 16 and size 17 on the Cartier Baignoire?

The difference is exclusively in the bracelet circumference: size 17 is 1 cm roomier than size 16. The case (the watch itself) is identical in both sizes — for both the Mini and the Small variant.

Is the Cartier Baignoire a good investment watch?

The Baignoire bangle models currently hold their value exceptionally well on the secondary market, partly due to limited availability. Whether this continues long-term depends on Cartier’s production strategy, but the historical value of the design is undisputed.

Can I swim with the Baignoire?

Technically, the Baignoire is water-resistant to 3 bar (~30 metres), but this is intended for splash water — not swimming or submersion. Treat it like a jewel: wear it, admire it, but keep it dry.

Mini or Small — which suits a smaller wrist?

For a wrist circumference under 15 cm, the Mini is the natural choice. The Small can feel overwhelming on a slender wrist. But taste is personal — the best advice is always: try them on. You can do that at a Cartier boutique or at our showroom in Amstelveen, by appointment.

Why is the Baignoire so hard to get?

Demand outstrips supply, particularly for the bangle models in yellow and rose gold. Cartier deliberately produces in limited quantities. This marks the first time in years that a ladies’ watch has waiting lists comparable to popular men’s sports watches.


Explore all Cartier models at XELOR →

Picture this: you’re standing outside a Rolex boutique, staring at the watch you’ve been dreaming about. The price is astronomical. The waiting list stretches years into the future. Yet everyone keeps telling you it’s an investment. Somewhere online, grey market dealers are selling the exact same model for even more. The logic seems backwards. But that’s precisely what makes Rolex fascinating — it operates in a world where scarcity and demand have rewritten the rules.

Why Rolex Commands This Level of Desire

Rolex has spent decades building an unshakeable reputation around three pillars: precision, durability, and exclusivity. Every watch leaving Geneva must clear the same exacting quality standards.

The real power lies in what Rolex deliberately does not do: it doesn’t flood the market. By keeping supply below demand, Rolex reinforces its luxury positioning and ensures that existing watches appreciate in value. A Rolex purchased five years ago is worth more today.

The Annual Price Increase

Like clockwork, usually in March or April, Rolex raises official retail prices. Sometimes by two percent. Sometimes by twelve. These increases maintain the premium perception and guarantee that the Rolex on your wrist genuinely becomes more valuable.

This creates a self-reinforcing cycle. Owners watch their watches gain value. Prospective buyers understand they’re acquiring something that will likely become more valuable. The waiting lists grow longer.

What Is the Grey Market?

The grey market refers to the sale of products outside a brand’s official distribution channels. For Rolex, this means watches sold outside authorized dealers. This isn’t illegal — it’s simply a different route.

Why would someone do this? Because waiting lists at official dealers stretch months or even years. Models like the Daytona and GMT-Master II are nearly impossible to obtain through regular channels. The grey market offers immediate availability — for a premium.

Which Models Are Most Sought After?

The Cosmograph Daytona and the GMT-Master II are the absolute kings of the grey market. These watches are not only beautiful but proven value-holders.

The Risks of the Grey Market

Not everything on the grey market is gold. There are risks: authenticity, condition, warranty issues. A watch sold outside official channels often lacks the factory warranty. And not every seller is equally trustworthy.

That’s why it’s essential to buy from an established, trusted party. One that guarantees authenticity, is transparent about provenance, and stands behind the sale.

Xelor: Your Trusted Partner

At Xelor Watches, we combine the availability of the secondary market with the reliability you expect from an established dealer. Every watch we offer is verified for authenticity. We’re transparent about condition and provenance. And we’re here for you after the sale.


Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just buy a Rolex?
Yes, but popular models have long waiting lists at official dealers. Through trusted secondary dealers like Xelor, immediate availability is possible.

What does an entry-level Rolex cost?
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual starts around €5,000, depending on market conditions.

Which Rolex appreciates the most?
The Daytona and GMT-Master II are historically the strongest performers in terms of value appreciation.

Is buying online safe?
Yes, provided you buy from a reliable, established dealer who guarantees authenticity and is transparent about provenance.

Every year, the watch world gathers around one event that sets the rhythm for the months ahead. Watches and Wonders — the stage where brands unveil their latest creations. In 2023, Rolex did not disappoint. From titanium to turquoise, from refreshed icons to entirely new collections: these are the watches that defined the conversation.

Titanium Yacht-Master 42 (Ref. 226627)

Rolex and titanium — it almost sounds like a contradiction for a brand so loyal to steel and gold. Yet the Yacht-Master 42 appeared in a titanium case that surprised the watch world. Light on the wrist, but with the substance you expect from Rolex. The automatic caliber 3235 powers this piece.

Yellow Gold GMT-Master II Models

Two new yellow gold variants emerged: a two-tone model in yellow gold and steel (126713GNR) and a full 18-karat gold GMT-Master II (126718GRNR). Both on a Jubilee bracelet — Rolex’s most comfortable link.

Explorer 40mm (Ref. 224270)

The Explorer grew to 40mm. The classic black 3-6-9 dial, the polished bezel, the iconic Oyster bracelet — everything is there. But in a size that better fills the modern wrist.

Tiffany Oyster Perpetual 41mm

The Tiffany blue returns, now with a “Celebration motif” on the dial. A watch that is more statement than instrument.

Perpetual 1908 Collection (Ref. 52508)

The successor to the Cellini line. Inspired by Rolex’s own history, available in 18-karat yellow or white gold. 39mm of elegance that looks back while pointing forward.

Sky-Dweller Updates (336934)

New dial options for the Sky-Dweller: stainless steel with green dial and 18-karat rose gold with blue-green dial.

Day-Date with Stone Dials (128345rbr)

Three new stone dials: green aventurine, carnelian, and turquoise. Available in rose gold, yellow gold, and white gold. Each piece is unique due to the natural variation in the stone.

Refreshed Cosmograph Daytona (Ref. 126506)

The Daytona celebrated its 60th anniversary. Refined case, updated dial design, and the new automatic caliber 4131. Six decades of racing, distilled into one watch.

Xelor’s Perspective

Watches and Wonders 2023 showcased a Rolex that dares to innovate without losing its identity. From titanium experiments to stone dials — every new model tells a story of craftsmanship that transcends generations. Curious about availability? Contact Xelor Watches.

A glass blend of deep blue and dignified red — two colors embracing each other in light on a ceramic bezel that seems to dance before your eyes. This is the Rolex Pepsi 126710BLRO, a watch that would complete many collections but remains out of reach for most.

The Ceramic Bezel: Art Under Pressure

The two-tone Cerachrom bezel is Rolex’s masterpiece and its greatest challenge. Blending two ceramic colors requires perfection at every step. Rolex has confirmed that approximately 50% of produced Pepsi bezels fail quality control, primarily due to color mixing issues creating an unwanted wavy appearance.

This rejection rate directly impacts availability. It’s not that Rolex makes fewer Pepsi watches — it’s that only half of what they prepare is actually suitable for the final product.

Demand That Overwhelms Supply

Rolex distributes fewer Pepsi models than any other GMT-Master reference. For every three BLNR models (black-blue bezel), only one Pepsi is distributed. This asymmetric distribution creates a market where the Pepsi holds a separate status. Not merely desired; strategically desired.

The Shared Bezel: A Silent Competitor

The Pepsi bezel isn’t exclusive to steel models. Rolex installs the same two-tone ceramic on gold and platinum versions of the GMT-Master II. A steel Pepsi therefore competes indirectly with gold Pepsis for the same limited supply.

The Rumors: Discontinuation Since 2021

Since 2021, rumors have circulated that the Pepsi may be discontinued. To date, the Pepsi has not been discontinued. Rolex continues to produce the model, though in quantities that cannot keep up with demand.

What Other Manufacturers Achieve

Other manufacturers can produce red and blue ceramic bezels without much drama. Rolex’s standard for flatness and color purity is likely stricter than industry normal. Perfection has a price.

An Invitation

If you’re searching for a GMT-Master II Pepsi, patience is your best companion. Xelor closely monitors all new availability and takes pleasure in matching these watches with the right owners.


Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Rolex Pepsi being discontinued?
Not officially. Rolex still produces the watch, but in severely limited quantities.

How many bezels fail production control?
Approximately 50%, which severely limits the number of watches that can be completed with a perfect bezel.

Is the Pepsi a good investment piece?
The Pepsi maintains its value better than many other watches, largely due to scarcity and sustained demand.

Imagine pulling a watch from your pocket and catching the light on the bezel. Red. Blue. Red. Blue. A rhythm of colors that has followed travelers across continents since 1954. This is the Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” — and since Rolex revived this iconic color combination in 2018, three distinct generations have emerged, each with its own character.

The Return of a Legend

The very first Rolex GMT appeared in 1954 with a blue-red bezel. Airlines recognized its utility: two colors, two time zones on your wrist. Pilots could tell at a glance where they were and where they were heading.

The Pepsi remained a legend for decades, until Rolex discontinued it in 2005. Then, in 2018, Rolex brought it back — reference 126710BLRO — and the watch world erupted.

MK1: The First Impression — Soft and Subtle

The MK1 bezel feels like a cautious return. The red isn’t loud. Some collectors describe it as “washed out” — an elegant, almost vintage appearance. For collectors who value subtlety, MK1 is a dream.

MK2: The Deepening — More Pronounced

Late 2018 brought MK2. The red became deeper. Richer. More vital. MK2 feels like Rolex said: “Let’s push this further.” Under daylight, MK2 becomes a statement bezel.

For many collectors, MK2 is the sweet spot — not too cautious, not too aggressive.

MK3: Back to the 1950s — Vivid and Authentic

Around mid-2019, Rolex introduced MK3. This is clearly an attempt to get closer to the 1954 original. The red is more saturated. Bold, even. This isn’t a subtle bezel anymore — it’s one that demands attention.

For purists who want the vintage Pepsi experience in modern form, MK3 is the goal.

The Timeline

MK1: 2018
MK2: Late 2018 to early 2019
MK3: Mid-2019 to present

How to Tell the Difference

The Collector’s Dilemma

Which do you choose? The answer depends on your personality. Subtlety? MK1. Balance? MK2. Purist? MK3.

Xelor Invites You to Discover

At Xelor Watches, we understand this choice is personal. We invite you to view different generations side by side and feel which one belongs on your wrist.

Imagine turning a watch on your wrist and discovering something you never noticed before. The way light falls across the sapphire crystal. The gentle sweep of the seconds hand. And then — suddenly — you see it. An almost invisible space between two letters on the dial. A “mistake” that has captivated collectors and driven prices skyward. This is the story of the Rolex Daytona 116520 APH dial: where imperfection became an art form.

The Moment Rolex Got It “Wrong”

Throughout the production run of the 116520, Rolex produced countless Daytona dials with mechanical precision. Until, on several occasions, something subtly went awry. On certain dials, a noticeable space appeared between “COSMOGR” and “APH” in the word “COSMOGRAPH”.

This wasn’t a catastrophe. It was a footnote in horological DNA — a small historical twist that occurred for only a few years before Rolex corrected it. And yet: today, Daytonas with this “APH dial” are considered jewels by collectors.

The APH: A Printing Error That Made History

Most collectors wouldn’t have noticed this spacing initially. It’s subtle — it lives in the typography, in the way letters were set on the dial. But once known, it becomes impossible to unsee.

The abbreviation APH doesn’t stand for anything specific — it’s simply the letters that remain after the space. Horological folklore suggests it resulted from a printing error in the production of dial stamps. Rolex noticed, corrected it, and moved on.

But collectors? They saw opportunity: exclusivity in a flaw. Authenticity in a deviation. The APH dial became a code by which insiders recognized each other.

Why This Small Error Is So Valuable

A Rolex Daytona 116520 APH can be worth considerably more than the same reference without the error. Three reasons:

Rarity. The APH dial was produced for only a few years. Not all 116520s have it. This makes them statistically scarce.

Collector mentality. In the watch world, emotion plays an enormous role. A unique variant with a story drives collectors to outbid each other.

Investment. Luxury watch collectors appreciate collections that grow in value. The APH dial offers that perspective.

How to Identify a Genuine APH

Identifying an APH dial requires expertise. The space is subtle. Under certain angles and lighting conditions it can be clear. Under others, it’s easily missed.

A qualified horological expert can identify the APH dial through direct examination and production records. When in doubt, consult an expert.

A Piece of History on Your Wrist

The Rolex Daytona 116520 APH is more than a beautiful watch. It’s an artifact from a specific moment in Rolex’s history — when handwork and machine work still operated in harmony.

Wearing an APH isn’t simply wearing something valuable. It’s wearing a story. That perfection sometimes emerges from imperfection. That beauty lives in nuance.

Xelor Invites You to Discover

Want to learn more about the Rolex Daytona 116520 and its variants? Xelor Watches invites you to explore the world of precision horology. Not to buy, but to discover its beauty.

LC 134 – Nederland

Rolex Landcodes: Wat betekent de LC op een Rolex-horloge?

Rolex, het wereldberoemde Zwitserse horlogemerk, heeft altijd een reputatie gehad voor precisie en aandacht voor detail. Een van de interessante aspecten van Rolex-horloges is de zogenaamde “Rolex LC” of landcode. Deze codes waren gedrukt op hun garantiekaarten tot 2020. Vanaf juni 2020, met een overlap, werden de nieuwe kaarten geïntroduceerd zonder codes.

De Rolex landcode, ook bekend als de “Rolex Client Number”, is geen teken van kwaliteit of waarde. Het geeft eenvoudigweg aan naar welk land het horloge is verzonden. Deze code is te vinden op de garantiekaart van het horloge. Als u een model van vóór 2007 bezit, staat de LC naast het woord “Garantie”. Voor horloges gemaakt na 2007 verschijnt de landcode bovenaan onder “N Client”.

Lijst van Rolex Landcodes:

Veelgestelde vragen:

  1. Welke landcode is 160 op Rolex?

    • LC 160 staat voor Groot-Brittannië/Ierland.
  2. Welk land heeft Rolex horloges gemaakt?

    • Elk Rolex-horloge wordt gemaakt in Zwitserland.
  3. Wat is het Rolex klantnummer?

    • Het Rolex klantnummer, ook bekend als de “Rolex LC” of landcode, geeft aan naar welk land het horloge is verzonden.
  4. In welke landen wordt Rolex verkocht?

    • Rolex wordt wereldwijd verkocht in vele landen, waaronder Zwitserland, Duitsland, Frankrijk, Nederland, Spanje, Groot-Brittannië, en vele anderen.

Meer over Rolex bij XelorWatches:

Als u geïnteresseerd bent in het verkennen van enkele van de beste Rolex-modellen, bezoek dan onze collecties:

Het is belangrijk op te merken dat terwijl de landcode interessant kan zijn voor verzamelaars en liefhebbers, het geen invloed heeft op de kwaliteit of waarde van het horloge zelf. Elk Rolex-horloge wordt met dezelfde precisie en vakmanschap gemaakt, ongeacht de landcode.

Geen wachtlijsten
Direct leverbaar

Alle horloges die XELOR Watches verkoopt zijn direct leverbaar. Hierdoor heb jij geen last van wachtlijsten.

Alle horloges
op voorraad

Alle horloges zijn altijd op voorraad bij XELOR Watches. XELOR Watches zorgt voor een compleet assortiment.

Kom langs
In onze Showroom

Wil jij graag langskomen om kennis te maken, of om horloges te passen? Onze showroom is altijd open op afspraak.